By Robert M. Sorensen

The second one version (1997) of this article was once a very rewritten model of the unique textual content simple Coastal Engineering released in 1978. This 3rd version makes a number of corrections, advancements and additions to the second one version. uncomplicated Coastal Engineering is an introductory textual content on wave mechanics and coastal methods besides basics that underline the perform of coastal engineering. This e-book was once written for a senior or first postgraduate direction in coastal engineering. it's also compatible for self learn by means of someone having a simple engineering or actual technological know-how historical past. the extent of insurance doesn't require a math or fluid mechanics historical past past that offered in a standard undergraduate civil or mechanical engineering curriculum. the cloth p- sented during this textual content relies at the author’s lecture notes from a one-semester path at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Texas A&M college, and George Washington collage, and a senior optionally available path at Lehigh college. The textual content includes examples to illustrate some of the research strategies which are offered and every bankruptcy (except the 1st and final) has a set of difficulties for the reader to resolve that extra display and extend upon the textual content fabric. bankruptcy 1 in short describes the coastal surroundings and introduces the re- tively new box of coastal engineering. bankruptcy 2 describes the two-dimensional features of floor waves and offers the small-amplitude wave concept to help this description.

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**Sample text**

15)] so the group celerity is half of the phase celerity. For a general relationship for the group celerity, employing the dispersion relationship with Eq. 43) yields C= ~2 (I + smh . 44) Thus, with n as defined in Eq. 45) So n is also the ratio of the wave group celerity to the phase celerity. Another way to look at this is that the wave energy is propagated forward at the group celerity. , force exerted by a water jet hitting a wall). Similarly, for waves it is better to consider the flux of momentum for some problem analyses.

Wave Power Wave power P is the wave energy per unit time transmitted in the direction of wave propagation. Wave power can be written as the product of the force acting on a vertical plane normal to the direction of wave propagation times the particle flow velocity across this plane. The wave-induced force is provided by the dy- Two-Dimensional Wave Equations and Wave Characteristics /25 namic pressure (total pressure minus hydrostatic pressure) and the flow velocity is the horizontal component of the particle velocity.

The terms in brackets that define wave decay/shoaling effects are the same as for the equivalent progressive wave characteristic. However, at a given point (x. - z) the horizontal and vertical velocity and displacement components are in phase, rather than being 90° out of phase as is the case for progressive waves. The pressure is hydrostatic under a node where particle acceler- 38 I Basic Coastal Engineering ation is horizontal; but under an anti node there is a fluctuating vertical component of dynamic pressure.