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By William Harry Mitchell, Leonard Arthur Sawyer

Tом: третий

Британские стандартные суда, построенные во время Первой мировой войны

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Extra resources for British Standard Ships of World War I

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Be sure to make these floors thicker than the \ finished edges that show a beaded edge on the outside, so there will be a ledge or rabbet to hold the windows and other outside finish parts (Fig. 38). Above all, see that the stiles are symmetrical. All should radiate from a point above and if this is not strictly observed, the entire beauty of Fig. 39 the architecture of the stern is destroyed (Fig. ) The same is also true in regard to the fore and aft sweep of the various rails, for they should carry out the lines of the sheer of the ship and conform strictly to them.

23). They make the frame of only one thickness and lap the two pieces at the keel. Most of the Admiralty models are made this way j and all that one needs is the body plan of the shi p, showing each frame, and then saw each of these out with a jig saw. Z4 novice to tackle, for the butts of the various futtocks, or pieces composing a frame, are confusing, yet, once understood, it saves a lot of wood as all small pieces can be used and a stronger frame results from not using any cross-grained wood.

Another trick the knowing ones always turned, was to cut the bevels on the back of the upper sail so that it stood out more square to the backboard. The next sail below was bevelled a little more, each one, going down from the top, being 8""1-6_,,nI bevelled more and more (Fig. 48) just as a ship's sails were "checked in," as it is termed, so the light upper sails will give warning by backing when the ship comes up too close to the wind, before the lower sai Is come aback. To carve these sails, you will need a soft, even-grained piece of wood, in which the grain runs cross-ways, that is, from the backboard out to the edge of the sail.

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